Custom Kitchen Cabinets part 3
July 10, 2011 by admin
Filed under Decorating & Remodeling
Custom cabinets, custom kitchen cabinets, kitchen cabinets, how to build cabinets, building cabinets, building a kitchen, how to build a kitchen, how to build cabinet doors?, how to build a door, how to build cabinet drawers, drawers, how to build drawers, drawer box, shop tours, virtual shop tour, assembling doors, assembling a kitchen, installing a kitchen, finishing wood, finishing cabinet doors, kitchen installation, building cupboards, Reynolds Custom Woodworks is a cabinet shop in Winslow Maine that specializes in custom kitchen cabinetry and fine furniture. Check us out on the web at www.CustomCabinetPro.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5
do you ever get burn marks on your wood when you run it through the drum sander?
I would love to have a workshop like that
@mjnorrad it’s a beading bit. I just rout the edge of the board, then rip it off and apply
What a great set of videos…very informative!! Just curious about what bit you use in the router to make the face frame bead? Do you route front and back or just front of the bead? Thank you for sharing your talent!
@DylanTownesDrake Faceframe cabinetry is all I have ever seen around my area. Euro style cabinetry is only used in commercial applications in my neck of the woods, so a beaded frame have always been more intimate. Of course there is cost as well… a good edgebander isn’t cheap!
Are you a one man operation? Also I assume you weighed the pro’s and con’s to doing American face frame cabinetry over European style cabinetry and I’m just wondering what brought you to do face frame over the box and door only. I agree with the decision for aesthetic and quality reasons but isn’t there more profit and less overhead for European style cabinetry? I ask because this is where I’m headed and would like to get some input on the future decision I will have to make. Thanks
@Skip28060 I use bead that is approximately 7/16″ wide. I have done different overall ff widths, I currently shoot for a 2″ finished width. I wouldn’t worry too much about the rail and stile width being different, the only place you would notice it would be near your end panels. Think about it… when two face frames come together the combined stile will be much wider then the rail. What I try to do is do a 1/2 style where two cabinets come together so the combined width matches the rails.
Chris – question about the faceframe bead..that’s where I’m at today. What width…1/4 inch, 3/8 inch?
Also, I may have srcewed up on carcas…need your consult. I’m shooting for 1.5 inch faceframes. At carcass bottom…I dadoed cabinet bottom to be 1.5 inch…forgot to allow for the width of the bead. Any asthetic problems having a 1.5 inch facefram bottom, including bead, and then going with 1.5 + width of the bead for the rest?
Tx, Skip
Chris – question about the faceframe bead..that’s where I’m at today. What width…1/4 inch, 3/8 inch?
Also, I may have srcewed up on carcas…need your consult. I’m shooting for 1.5 inch faceframes. At carcass bottom…I dadoed cabinet bottom to be 1.5 inch…forgot to allow for the width of the bead. Any asthetic problems having a 1.5 inch facefram bottom, including bead, and then going with 1.5 + width of the bead for the rest?
Tx, Skip
@Skip28060 Chris – question about the faceframe bead..that’s where I’m at today. What width…1/4 inch, 3/8 inch?
Also, I may have srcewed up on carcas…need your consult. I’m shooting for 1.5 inch faceframes. At carcass bottom…I dadoed cabinet bottom to be 1.5 inch…forgot to allow for the width of the bead. Any asthetic problems having a 1.5 inch facefram bottom, including bead, and then going with 1.5 + width of the bead for the rest?
Tx, Skip
your the man
Man great youtube channel Thanks a million.
@Skip28060 Drum sander hits everything. When I plane my panels down I make sure they are flush or slightly below the rails and stiles. I used to make sure that the panels were below the r’s and s’s because the drum sander left fine lines and it was a pain to sand out, I’ve since got a widebelt sander and have no worries about lines.
@farmerrey Chris – when you send each door thru the drum sander, is the drum sander hitting the raided panel surface AND the rails/stiles? That would mean tha the 1/2 inch thick panels have to be level with the surface of the rails/stiles. I will attempting same method.
@vanderross1 I use titebond III for glue. When possible I leave them in clamps over night, but says you only need to clamp for 1 hour if you are not stressing the joint. They are called space balls, around 1/4″ in diameter. I put two for each rail and stile. Keep them close to the corners of the doors on wide or tall doors as putting them in the center may cause the stiles to bow.
Just wondering what glue you use, and how long you leave it to dry when clamped? Also, what size are the rubber spacers you put in the rails and styles before fitting the panel, and how many? Thanks
@Skip28060 Assembly table is a torsion box made from mdf with mdf skins, white oak facing. Miter saw is basically a laminate top w/ no back splash. Workbench is edge grain butcher block oak
Chris,
A little bit off subject, but what surface do you use for your workbenches…over where the radial/miter saw is…and then again, on your assembly benches. I’m geeting close to assembing both. Looks like melamine and/or partical board.
Thanks
@jasonrobichaud9 I make all my doors a bit over size so squaring takes place out of the clamps. In an inset door application the doors are cut to fit within the face frame with an equal reveal on all four sides. Fitting is not required for an overlay application
Do you not square the doors?
Nice Videos, now I understand why custom kitchen cabinets can become costly.
Nice job on the videos, excellent work.. you make it look so easy..