Woodworking – Kitchen Cabinets
April 20, 2011 by admin
Filed under Decorating & Remodeling
Kitchen Cabinet Building with tongue & groove/Dado carcass, Top frames, Back frames with panels, Panel doors—Cope and Stick construction, Mortise and tenon face frames, Interlocking drawer assembly.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Custom cabinets, custom kitchen cabinets, kitchen cabinets, how to build cabinets, building cabinets, building a kitchen, how to build a kitchen, how to build cabinet doors?, how to build a door, how to build cabinet drawers, drawers, how to build drawers, drawer box, shop tours, virtual shop tour, assembling doors, assembling a kitchen, installing a kitchen, finishing wood, finishing cabinet doors, kitchen installation, building cupboards, Reynolds Custom Woodworks is a cabinet shop in Winslow Maine that specializes in custom kitchen cabinetry and fine furniture. Check us out on the web at www.CustomCabinetPro.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5
andy milonakis
yes could give more info for thows who do not know what it is you are doing . But I must say you did a god job on the cab’s and video showing the easyist way to build cab’s I did it for 8yrs for a liveing . And this is the easy way for someone to get started
great job keep it up sir.
Very cognitive video. But many things can be found here: alturl.com / 3z6sr (delete spaces)
@talledu Sorry about that. I will be narrating it soon. I am in the process of updating some of my older videos, now. Subscribe and edit subscription for email notifications so you can see it. I am also working on a new cabinet/chest video now. Thanks for commenting.
I kinda wish you would have narrated this.
You inspired me to build my own, thanks
Sorry, I ran out of characters. I also wanted to tell you that the drawers are inter locked front and back. I helped with the installation (leveling, fitting, cutting sink hole and counter top). The customer added the finish to the project. They used lacquer on the inside and primer and enamel paint on all exposed outside surfaces. The cabinets are in a room above a garage (studio apartment complete with lavatory). I Hope I answered all of your questions.
Sorry about the narration. I took these photos to show the progression of construction long before I decided to make a slide-show/movie. This was a custom job on a low budget. I had to build lower than standard height to accommodate the molded counter top with back-splash. It had to fit snugly under the window Sill. The cabinets are fir plywood and the face-frames, door frames and drawer fronts are pine. I used a router to tongue-and-groove all carcass parts, Mortise and tenon face frames.
If you watch the video to the very end you will see that the ends of these cabinets will never show, that’s why I turned the good side of the end panel inward. If The ends were to show I would have put a skin (An eighth or quarter inch panel) on the visible end. The edge of the skin would not show in front because the face-frame overlaps the ends of the cabinets, so the ends of the face frame can be planned to fit the angle of the wall (walls are never straight).
What do you cover the sides with so all the grain in the wood isn’t showing. Or do you just paint?
very nice work
Very good-looking cabinet. Video could use a narration, though… Like what kind of wood you used, which tools, what primer/paint… Good job.
pistures are awesome
i am about to build my first kitchen
where do i find blue prints or dimensions for kitchen cabinets?
ty
great job mate
Apology if I offended you. It just so happens that I like the videos a lot and watch them many times. My questions are more of a curiosity and learning. Me posting videos !!!! I am in the Kindergarten of Woodworking and most of my knowledge is mostly theoretical (and it probably shows by my questions).
Apology again, it is just that I use your videos as a tutorial and have learned MOST from watching your videos with lots of attention. Believe me, I have learned a LOT from your responses.
@nasarazam Do your own thing man, I’ll do it the way that I, and most everyone else, has done it for years. Different strokes for different folks. I’m starting to disapprove your picking each of my steps apart. Do your own videos if you feel you know so much.
It also crossed my mind that to actually do the mortises for very long pieces and then rip and cross cut them into many smaller rails and stiles . (you still have to do the tenons). Using this approach, all your rails and stiles will have exactly same mortises.
Changing the sequence of steps:
When doing the Doors, Would it make sense (safety wise) to NOT cut the Rails and style to the actual width but have one piece for stile and one for rail; each just over double the width of single piece. you then cut mortises and tenons (two pieces instead of four). Due to the wider width, your hands are further away from the blade.
Only after the mortises and tenons are done, you rip each piece into two to get two rails and two stiles.
Thanks for ALL your replies. You are the best !
@nasarazam raised part on the inside to give the shaker style door more mass. a 1/4″ solid panel would run the risk of cupping
@nasarazam Thanks for the tip… don’t think I haven’t thunk about it
One more thing……. Please get yourself a Sawstop. You look very confident (..over confident) moving your hands so close to the blade in many of your cuts. I was getting nervous and thought will share this reminder with you !
Thanks for the prompt reply. I never realized about the heat generated by using the router bit. As a hobbyist, I seldom do more then couple of doors, but with your explanation, I learnt a new thing.
Once you use Domino, you will be impressed.
I understand that you have to use the solid panel doors,but I still do not understand why you would use the good part (raised part) as an inside of the door???
@nasarazam a true shaker style door still has a 1/2″ panel, hence the raised panel on the inside. Yes… using a 1/4″ plywood panel would be “easier”, but we use solid wood for our doors as our customers expect it.
@nasarazam Using a router to mill stop datos is not necessarily faster. After about the 5′th door the bit would start to burn from the heat generated. this is because the bit is removing material perpendicular the the motion of the stock vs. parallel to the motion of the stock when using the tablesaw or shaper. I’m not sold on the domino.
Wouldn’t doing stop Dados on a Router table and using Festool Dominos be easier and faster then doing all tenons and mortises? I understand that doing Stop Dados on Table Saw may not be desirable but i thought on a Router Table it is much easier. Again, I am just a beginner, these questions are for more get a bit enlightened and use the easiest way to build cabinets. I have done Flat Panel Doors using Router Table and Dominos and thought that was easier and faster.
In the example of the Door you showed (3:45), I do not understand why you would have a flat panel outside and raised one inside !!!
@MrMatison if you run the blade through slowly it won’t chip as easily
Grow the beard back and use a push block! Love these vids.
@MrMatison end pieces???
How do you eliminate chip-out when cutting end pieces? Is it a special blade?
@TheWigginssisters I do two 1″ vertical stiles where two face frames abut each other. When the cabinets are all fastened together a run of cabinetry looks like one giant face frame.
Great Videos, I’m a carpenter planning to build my own kitchen cabinets, ? do you ever build a face frame to cover the run of cabinetry, instead of having 2″ stile butting the next cabinet of 2′ stile. Which doesn’t look like a custom unit. Thanks
@32bala with shaker style doors (flat panel) I like to put the raised panel on the inside to add a bit of weight and stability to the door.
@leopaldbutters I think it works well for shaker style doors. If I’m running a bunch of doors with profiles then I use the shaper with feeder for the sticking, and a second shaper for my copes. I don’t like offsetting my grooves with shaker style doors, I know it will be perfectly centered with the tablesaw. I know, a little archaic, but when you’ve done hundreds of them this way you can bang them out awful quick
is it easier to do your rails and stiles on the table saw rather than the shaper?
very good videos man i wish to have that size the shop you got there ,there is any particular reason you put the raised panel in the inside
@surfflyfish4striper pipe clamps
@nasarazam it is a delta unisaw, 5 hp 220v single phase